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THE TALE OF THE TINY TIN: A CASE STUDY ON EATING SARDINES FOR DECADES, AND NOT KNOWING MUCH ABOUT THEM – UNTIL READERS ASKED.

Herb Denenberg Column for January 03, 1990
Questions coming from my readers educate me on all matters, important and unimportant, but always important to someone.

For example, I’ve had a handful of questions on sardines, and soon realized that although I’ve been eating those poor little fish jammed into those tiny tins for all these years, I knew almost nothing about them.

Before my readers required this newfound interest in sardines, I had come across references to the food value of sardines – high in omega-3 fatty acids, calcium, some vitamins, and a good source of protein. But I didn’t realize that sardines offer as much high quality protein, ounce for ounce, as a prime sirloin, and with much less saturated fat and cholesterol. I didn’t realize that sardines with bones offered more calcium than milk (370 mg. v. 300 mgs), cheddar cheese, enriched orange juice, kale or broccoli. I knew sardines were rich in omega-3 fatty acids, but not that they were at the top of the list, or at least the list I checked. Gordon Wright, a spokesman for King Oscar, told me, “We’ve been pointing out the health benefits of sardines for years, and now the medical community seems to have caught on.” I not only found out that I knew virtually nothing about sardines, but also I soon discovered, as most usually do, that when you start digging into almost any subject it gets interesting, and sometimes even more interesting, as you dig deeper.

I soon discovered that sardines are a portmanteau term covering about 23 different kinds of small fish. I had always thought a sardine was like a salmon or a mackerel, basically describing a single kind of fish.

I noticed I had been eating brisling sardines, but had no idea what that meant. I found out they were smaller and more delicate than other sardines – so small that you can pack up to 38 into one of those small tins. So I had more appreciation of the figure of speech about being packed in like sardines.

I also had no idea of the varieties of sardines in terms of the oils and sauces used in packing them – olive oil, soybean oil, spring water, water, salsa, tomato sauce, mustard sauce, hot sauce and other varieties. I wasn’t aware that they had even come up with a sardine variety especially designed for characters that like spicy food, e.g., King Oscar’s Mediterranean Style Sardines, with olive oil, garlic, red bell peppers and black olives, which have now become my personal favorite. I also like the idea that you can buy them in 1.5 ounce tins instead of the usual 3.75 ounces. However, the smaller tin is available only in limited distribution.

Speaking of King Oscar, perhaps the best-known brand of sardines, I also wasn’t aware that King Oscar II ruled the United Kingdoms of Sweden and Norway from 1872 to 1905, when Norway gained its independence. I also wasn’t aware the Royal Norwegian Court granted permission for the sardine company to use King Oscar’s name and picture on its products. I had assumed King Oscar was about as real as Betty Crocker or Aunt Jemima. And according to company literature, until this day, King Oscar brisling is the only product in Norway with “Royal Permission." Apparently, Oscar of Norway was more particular than Elizabeth and the other English monarchs who spread their permissions all over the place. I could have figured some of this out if I had read the print that appears above King Oscar’s picture on each product – “By Special Royal Permission.” Although I’m always preaching about reading the label, I now confess that I didn’t read the whole label on the many tins of King Oscar sardines I have consumed over the years.

I focused on Brisling sardines, sold under the King Oscar brand. I was unaware of exactly how they are prepared and I found that instructive. I learned that sardines travel in gigantic schools that can extend for miles. I would have guessed correctly, if I thought about it, that they are harvested in nets. I wasn’t aware that Norwegians had fished sardines for a millennium.

Most sardines are caught before maturity. However, Norwegian brislings are caught at maturity (2 years old) and that is said to provide the best meat quality and the optimal fat content. Then I learned something else, which will be a question I must explore for all other fish. Here’s the way King Oscar explained it: “And after being caught, only Norwegian brisling are kept in the nets long enough to empty their intestinal tracts, so they have been naturally cleaned of all ‘sediments’ before processing.”

Then the sardines are lightly oak wood smoked in large ovens, just as they’ve been for over 100 years. Finally, they are hand packed, unlike most sardines, which have fallen victim to mechanized packing. Tins of sardines make a good food to be kept for emergencies, as they are recommended for eating for five years after canning. Gordon Wright added that the company is aware of opening these sardine cans fifty years after canning, and eating them.

One of the advantages of being in the media is that you are provided access to an endless stream of experts. In this case, I found the sardine expert quoted above, Gordon Wright, who spends his time thinking and speaking of King Oscar brisling sardines. He was invaluable in educating me about sardines. You might say he is a courtier in the court of Oscar, King of sardines. But, of course, I found some interesting things about sardines on my own. As I looked at supermarket shelves, I came across something I’ve never seen before: Sardines in a regular can instead of the usual tin. For those who don’t like opening a tin with that rollback stroke, that might be an advance. However, some other columnist will have to examine in more detail the pros and cons of sardines in a regular can. I have a feeling that one column on sardines in a lifetime is enough, with all respect to the sardines and King Oscar II.


Herb Denenberg is a former Pennsylvania Insurance Commissioner, professor at the Wharton School, and Pennsylvania Public Utility Commissioner. He is a member of the Institute of Medicine of the National Academy of Sciences and is a board member of the Center for Safe Medication Use. He is an adjunct professor of insurance and information science and technology at Cabrini College. You can write Herb at POB 7301,St. Davids, PA e-mail him at hdenenberg@aol.com or reach him at his two Web sites: thedenrep_archive.org or denenbergsdump.org